TEESTA BAZAR
After NH10 from Teesta bazar towards Siliguri and Teesta - Darjeeling road was declared open for light vehicles (with restrictions in timings) on 21Oct2023, I made a trip to check the impact of the GLOF in areas shown below:
An enlarged map of impacted areas and corresponding photos of Teesta bazar are given.
The road to Tribeni (27° 4' 4.986" N, 88° 25' 38.13", 229m) - Photo1.
The road is covered by a blanket of sand almost 10-15 feet thick and a lonely excavator had dug this canal through it. On 22Oct2023, I could barely walk a few hundred meters before coming to a dead end.
Where these children frolicked, there were 8 homes which got swept away on 04Oct2023. I talked to Mrs Pushpa Subba (seen above) who said her home was cracked at many places and the river now was so much closer than earlier (27° 3' 58.71" N, 88° 25' 34.038" E, 220m) - Photos 2/3.
Meet Simran, 25yrs old as she guards what could be recovered from her house. She and her family of 5 had to abandon their home and shift to this relief center where 3 other families are staying. She said that the cracks on the floor and walls were not so huge a few days ago - now the 'river was pulling it down'.
This entire area in Teesta bazar seems to be sinking. (27° 3' 41.49" N, 88° 25' 28.818" E, 236.6m) - Photo 4.
Teesta river is now running so close to populated parts of Teesta bazar that it is difficult to distinguish safe from unsafe areas. These two above are areas close to the Teesta bridge and definitely in high danger zones
(
27° 3' 23.484" N, 88° 25' 29.922" E,
218.8m) - Photos 5/6.
The road from Teesta to Darjeeling which was submerged just a few days ago. Now with the waters receding a bit and also no dams operating, engineers have cleared the road for vehicular traffic. Notice how perilously close the river is to the road. My thought is always on how safe will these roads and especially NH10 be in the monsoons of 2024 and in the years ahead? (27° 3' 14.208" N, 88° 25' 33.312" E, 196.8m) - Photo7/8.
OTHER AREAS
NH 10: Teesta - Likhu Bhir - Baluakhani (29th Mile) section
This portion of NH10 faced the brunt of the GLOF and is also the portion where the level of the road is closest to the river. Though NH10 has now been opened for light vehicles and between 6am to 6pm, the condition of the road is still precarious at many places and a fast flowing silt laden Teesta river is gnawing at the base of the road relentlessly.
This results in chunks of the road suddenly collapsing into the river. Also parts of the road are cracked and subsiding at many places, which maybe the reason for not allowing heavy vehicular traffic.
When I was young (and when there were no dams around!), Likhu Bhir used to be the most active and troublesome landslide on the Siliguri- Kalimpong route (NH31 then) but for decades the slide was dormant and never a problem to NH10 users. It is a pity that the slide has been activated by the GLOF.Coordinates 👆: 27° 2' 11.058" N, 88° 25' 38.58" E, 240.4mTraffic on NH 10 near Likhu Bhir on the day the highway was opened.The major landslide on NH 10 at 27th Mile and our bane for years, mercifully remained stable during the GLOF (Coordinates 👆 27° 0' 59.298" N, 88° 26' 13.062" E, 765.60m)Unimaginable amount of sand and debris which the GLOF has dumped every where.
Geil Khola (Coordinates 27° 1' 45.168" N, 88° 25' 40.53" E, 215.1m)Geil khola from the opposite hillChand Adhikari who works for an IRCON contractor stayed in this rented home with 12 other workers. He is standing on what used to be a dining room for them. The GLOF buried everything and they have been told not to excavate for fear of army explosives which maybe buried in the sand.Mr Ashok Gurung (42yrs) a resident of Geil never believed such a thing would ever happen, having seen many instances where the Teesta flooded areas in Geil Khola. He said they received alerts from friends and relatives from 2am/04Oct2023 and the floods hit them at 4.00am. Between 4 to 4.30 everything they had was gone. He stands above his village where 11 homes are buried by the flooding. Adding misery to the miserable - villagers homes buried by the GLOF at Geil Khola.
NHPC Teesta Low Dam Project (TLDP) III (Coordinates 27° 0' 10.554" N 88° 26' 29.316" E 205.3m)The debris that the floods brought sits below the NHPC power plant.Sand being excavated from in front of the TLDP III power station. I wonder how much of the pondage of this and other dams has been filled up by the unimaginable amount of silt and debris the river brought on 04Oct2023 and still continues to bring down.
Bangay bustee (Coordinates 26° 59' 59.028" N 88° 26' 35.34" E 194.3m)Bangay bustee sits at the confluence of the Relli and Teesta rivers and on 04Oct2023, the entire village comprising of 19 houses went under water. Unfortunately, I could not cross over to the village on 22Oct2023, since the Relli river is still over flowing the bridge.Mounds of sand being excavated from homes at Bangay village on 22Oct2023.
Having visited most places south of Rangpo which were affected by the GLOF from South Lhonak Glacier on 04Oct2023, I am truly humbled by what I saw.
It was surely a once in a lifetime event where a massive lake burst its banks high up in the Himalayas and led to another huge artificial lake bursting (Sikkim Urja dam) at Chunthang. Together, it released a wall of water almost 15 feet high which I am sure no dam authority or people along the Teesta valley were prepared for. As a result several dams downstream are non-functional today and the level of the Teesta river has gone up by 10-15 feet at places. We were lucky that despite more sophisticated early warning systems failing, the cell phone system worked in the pouring rain and the police together with community messages helped in evacuating large numbers of people to higher ground. Thousands more could have perished.
Yes, we were lucky - this time.
I hope these images will bear testimony to what was one of the most dangerous and large disaster events of recent times.
My thanks to all the affected people for speaking to us and sharing their experiences, thanks also my young friend, Praveen of Junkeri Studios for the earlier two episodes and everyone else who made this reporting possible.
Praful Rao
Kalimpong district
Darjeeling- Sikkim Himalaya
savethehills@gmail.com
9475033744
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