Photo essay on Glacial Lake Outburst Flood (GLOF) of 04Oct2023: the Kalimpong chapter

The GLOF of 04Oct2023 from Lhonak Glacier affected down stream areas in Kalimpong district (W Bengal) as well. As on date, three people are confirmed dead and thirteen people missing, most of these figures coming from the W. Bengal side of Rangpo.
However, many of the low lying areas along the path of the river were severely affected and residents of Teesta bazaar recounted how a swollen river had suddenly barged in, in the darkness and in pouring rain at around 3am on 04Oct2023.
Kalimpong recorded 147mm rain on 04Oct2023.

On 10Oct2023, we (Praveen of Junkeri Studios, his team and I) reached Teesta bazaar which is around 15kms from Kalimpong and spent almost 6hrs there and at Melli and Bhalukhola (See map above). We could not see other places such as Geil Khola or Tribeni because the roads are simply non existent:
* Road towards Siliguri - damaged at Rabi jhora and Likhu bhir. *Road to Darjeeling and Teesta bazaar - still under Teesta waters at the NH10, Darjeeling road bifurcation.* Road to Tribeni damaged at numerous places from Teesta bazaar to Tribeni. * NH10 towards Gangtok - precarious at many, many places, even tho it was open at that time.

Relief camp details as on 11Oct2023 are given above. Many more are staying with their friends and relatives in the vicinity.
Loss of livestock also has been a major issue with countless pigs, cattle, poultry and goats being swept away by the floods.

What struck us on reaching Teesta was the sheer size and swiftness of the river even after 6 days of the GLOF and the amount of debris/sand and sediment the river was still carrying.I wondered how this was possible? since it was not raining heavily in North Sikkim.

This is the road to Darjeeling at Teesta bazaar.

With the river still flowing from one bank to the other and at much higher level (because of the silt deposit), parts of the road to Darjeeling are still submerged.

A dog lazily scratches himself, while sitting on the roof of a home which is still under water at Teesta bazaar. We were told that 45 homes had been damaged or destroyed in this area. Notice the water level is almost at the same level as the road. We observed this everywhere - the water level has gone up dramatically, even as much as 20-30 feet and now the river is flowing much closer to populated areas and the railway tunnels.

Sunayana Devi stands on the roof of what was earlier her kitchen. Half of her three storey structure is now filled with sand and the sudden invasion by the flood waters prevented them from saving anything. Like many so many others we spoke to, she wants the government to relocate her to a safer place.

An elderly lady and two young relatives check the damage to their home in Teesta bazaar. The river is today just a few meters away from their home which itself is dangerously cracked. - photo by Praveen.

The ferocity of the flood waters is unimaginable - the Teesta dumped 10-15 feet of sand on these two vehicles (and everything else) in its 3 hour rampage at the center of the bazaar. We were lucky this time - our casualty figures are far less than what was expected.

Volunteers clearing up in Teesta bazaar take a break from their work - photo by Praveen.

Remains of a brand new resort in Teesta Bazaar after the GLOF. Huge chunks of whatever is seen in this image are cracked and dangerously tilting towards the river - photo by Praveen.

Even though not many lives were lost, the GLOF wreaked havoc on the infrastructure in the 3-4 hour event. All this comes at a time when people of this region are looking forward to celebrating the festive season ahead - photo by Praveen.

A priest and a devotee perform a puja on the banks of the Teesta perhaps to pacify the river Gods. The river looks deceptively calm.

Fresh rations stock at Melli bazaar (W Bengal side).
The worst affected here were the two shanty colonies (located below the Melli bridge) which comprised of almost 30 odd homes. Nothing remains except a solitary, sand covered Masjid where the the predominantly Muslim dwellers used to worship.
As with others, a victim wanted the government to swiftly shift them to a safer location.
At most places we visited, there was no shortage of food or clothing for the time being - but winter is nigh and these people will need sustained care to help them recoup.

Drone image by Praveen of Melli stadium (Sikkim) covered with sludge. Do notice at where the Teesta is flowing.

Teesta stomps into the courtyard of the Tribeni Covid Hospital.
This large structure was used as the GTA Covid Hospital during the pandemic and is extensively used by tour operators to entertain tourists even overnight. Luckily no one was around when Teesta came calling on 04Oct2023 at 3am.
One can see quite a lot of damage in the right flank of the building in the drone image by Praveen (below).

NH10, opposite Melli town.
The GLOF of Oct2023 together with the dam operations is going to make NH10 maintenance a headache. Numerous places along the NH10 are subsiding and this makes driving at night on the highway even dangerous.
Another image by Praveen of the damage to NH10 is below

The UCNI church at Bhalukhola, near Melli. This is low lying area which was flooded during the GLOF.

The living room of a home at Bhalukhola - an entire lifetime's earnings have been reduced to sludge and mud covered trash- Photo by Praveen

There was a shanty colony here in Bhalukhola, which has been swept away by the flood. The more permanent structures have survived but will need extensive repair.
But looking at the proximity of the river and the elevated level at which it is flowing, will anyone risk returning to these homes? Photo by Praveen.

An after thought and a sense of deja vu
I find it strange that on 10Oct2023, I did exactly the same thing I did from the same spot, 55years ago in Oct1968 - that is, photograph the devastation caused by a raging river from the opposite bank of the Teesta.
I have written about it here

 

Update on 16Oct2023: Teesta-Darjeeling road open 'but repairs still going on', as reported by Mr Soam Namchu of Glen Family Foundation today in STH Whats App group 'Hazard Alerts'

Photo credit: Soam Namchu

Again, my gratitude to all those who helped make this documentation possible.


Praful Rao
Kalimpong district
Darjeeling - Sikkim Himalaya
savethehills@gmail.com
9475033744